This blog, in addition to the usual maintenance details for classic mini cars, an attempt is made to explain the "whys" and "wherefores" of the various jobs.

Showing posts with label drivers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label drivers. Show all posts

Sunday, 18 October 2009

Steering and Roadholding

Expert drivers were quick to appreciate the light, precise steering and the excellent roadholding of these little cars, qualities which were subsequently demonstrated in many international road rallies, races and similar competitive events. Unlike many modern


 
 
 
 
Fig. 6. The Clubman Estate continues the popular series of Mini estate cars
 
 
 
 
cars, they should maintain an equal standard of stability when driven fast in gusty side winds.


Any lack of precision in the steering, or tendency to wander, therefore, calls for investigation. Similarly, instability when cornering fast or when the car is driven over a pot-holed surface at speed (the all-independent suspension normally deals exceptionally well even with atrocious road surfaces) suggests that the shock absorbers have weakened and are due for replacement.

A word of caution is, perhaps, advisable in the case of the estate car and van. The urge to forge ahead at too high a speed on rough tracks should be curbed if a full load is being carried, owing to the risk of the underside of the car bottoming on bumpy surfaces. This does not imply, of course, that the ground clearance is inadequate. At about 6£ inches (with the car laden) it compares favourably with many much larger models. A further point is that the disposition of the load can affect the handling qualities. It should be arranged as far forward as possible, since a tail-heavy car will develop an over-steering characteristic—a term which simply means that the tail will tend to swing outwards if corners are taken fast.



Braking System. The powerful and progressive Lockheed hydraulic brakes contribute to the excellent average speeds that can be put up during the course of a fast cross-country run when the car is being really hurried. Ordinarily, of course, it is bad practice to "drive on the brakes." When in good condition the brakes should call for only light pedal pressure during normal braking and moderately firm pressure to obtain maximum retardation, when the car should pull up all-square. The latter characteristic should be retained when the brakes become really hot through frequent use, and the travel of the brake pedal should not increase appreciably; in other words, the brakes are not prone to "fade" and if this symptom is detected, it is probable that incorrect linings have been fitted to the shoes at some time, or that the braking system as a whole requires a complete overhaul, as described in Chapter 10.

The Minis On The Road

We can now turn to an assessment of the road manners and handling characteristics of the cars or vans, mainly for the benefit of a driver who has no previous experience of these models and therefore lacks a yardstick by which to judge the performance of a particular car perhaps a used example that he has just purchased or is intending to put through a fairly comprehensive road test.

The points that will be emphasized are those that will give a fairly reliable indication of its general mechanical condition. It is impossible, of course, to lay down hard-and-fast standards, as so much will depend on the mileage that has been covered since new or since an overhaul was carried out. A certain amount of latitude must therefore be allowed, but it should also be remembered that, initially, these cars set a very high standard and will amply repay any work put in by a keen and conscientious owner.


The engine should be smooth and quiet, apart from a certain amount of "buzz" from the cooling fan as the speed rises, and a noticeable but not un¬pleasant whine from the constant-mesh gears that convey the drive from the engine to the gearbox, which are always in action, even when top gear is engaged (for details of a really worthwhile sound-damping kit, see Chapter 12).

Drivers of earlier models often criticized the gearchange on the score of stiffness in action, particularly "across the gate" between second and third gears. This tended to wear off, or at least become less noticeable, as the mileage mounted, and the change was, in addition, noticeably improved on later cars. As with many popular cars, difficulty is sometimes experi¬enced in engaging first gear when the car is at rest and as this gear is not synchronized on earlier cars, the double-declutching technique must be used when changing from second to bottom gear with the car on the move. In other words, the clutch must be momentarily engaged when the gear lever has been slipped into neutral, the engine at the same time being accelerated to synchronize the gears; the clutch is then depressed and the gear lever moved into the first-gear position.

The experienced driver will probably double-declutch even when changing between the upper ratios, since the synchromesh is not very powerful and can be overcome even when making moderately slow changes.


The baulk-ring synchromesh gearbox fitted to later models, however, was a great improvement and eliminated most of the complaints associated with earlier cars. Modifications to the remote-control gearchange on earlier Cooper models also cured the irritating rattle that developed at certain engine speeds, but as the nylon cup incorporated in the ball-and-





Fig. 5. The Austin Mini Countryman Mark II, counterpart of the Morris Mini Traveller




 
 
 
socket of the lever on later cars wears, the rattle can recur. The simple cure is to remove the gear lever and fit a second spring inside the existing spring. This will make gearchanging a little stiffer but will save a great deal of wear and tear on the driver's nerves!


While on the subject of troubles which develop in early Minis, the tendency to frequent breakage of the exhaust pipe cannot be overlooked. Owing to the design of the exhaust system, the pipe absorbs a considerable amount of the engine torque reaction, as the engine attempts to rock on its mountings. An engine tie-bar is fitted but when the bushes become worn the exhaust pipe eventually fractures, either at the manifold joint or at the bracket at the gearbox.

On pre-1964 cars, the remedy is to fit pairs of special cones, which are obtainable from most accessory shops stocking Mini gadgets, to the tie-bar bushes. The trouble is not likely to occur on later cars nor was it experienced on Cooper models, which have different mounting arrangements.

Finally, if you have an early model which is not fitted with the sixteen-blade fan, a lot of engine noise can be eliminated by substituting the latest pattern. It costs about £1, but you will have to remove the radiator in order to fit it.